MaxxFan 7500K — Rear-Bay Install (2025 Sprinter)
Single rear fan. DIYvan rear adapter. DIY 3/4″ plywood interior frame. Through-bolted. No anti-crack ring.
Materials
- MaxxFan Deluxe 7500K (Smoke), 14×14 cutout — $298.88
- DIYvan VS30 rear-bay roof adapter (“All Rib / Bay 4”) — $79.55
- 3/4″ birch plywood for interior frame (OD ~18″×18″, ID 14″×14″)
- Butyl tape 1″ × 1/8″
- Polyurethane adhesive/sealant (Sikaflex-221 or 3M 4000UV) for adapter→roof
- Self-leveling lap sealant (Dicor or Alpha) for exterior cap
- Touch-up enamel + rust-inhibiting primer for raw metal edges
- Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) + lint-free rags
- Dark-gray paint or polyurethane for the interior frame (edges sealed)
Hardware
- 16× stainless #10-24 machine screws, 1.5″ and 2.0″ (use what fits)
- 16× stainless #10-24 nyloc nuts
- 32× stainless #10 fender washers, ~1″ OD (inside and outside)
- Fan→flange: use the four kit screws (included)
Tools
Cut, prep, seal
- Painter’s/masking tape, marker, straightedge, square
- Measuring tape, clamps, magnets
- Large cardboard box or plastic sheeting “hammock” to catch shavings
- Drop cloths, shop-vac, safety glasses, gloves
Cutting and drilling
- Jigsaw
- bi-metal 18–24 TPI blades
- Drill/driver
- Bits: 1/8″ pilot, 3/8″ twist (corner holes), step bit to 3/8–1/2″
- Deburr/chamfer bit and fine flat file
Frame finishing
- Forstner bit 1″–1-1/4″ for shallow counterbores (socket access)
- Sandpaper
- Caulk gun
Acoustic package removal (inside roof)
- Heat gun
- Plastic/nylon paint scraper
- Adhesive remover safe for painted steel (citrus-based or IPA)
Electrical
- 14 AWG duplex stranded wire (marine-grade preferred), ~15–25 ft
- Inline fuse holder + 5 A fuse near source
- Heat-shrink butt connectors or solder + heat-shrink
- Wire loom and clips for strain relief and routing
Placement
- Rear bay centerline. Verify ~8″ clearance behind opening for lid louvers.
- Avoid roof bows. Check for wiring/airbags before drilling.
Layout and Cut (cut first)
- Mask a 16″×16″ area. Use adapter as template to mark a 14″×14″ square.
- Drill 1/8″ pilots at corners. Enlarge corners to ~3/8″.
- Set up the interior shavings catcher: taped plastic or a big box “hammock.” Add magnets near the cut line.
- Jigsaw the square. Support the slug to prevent panel distortion.
- Deburr and file smooth. Prime and paint all raw edges. Let cure.
Remove acoustic panels (inside)
- Warm sound-deadener with heat gun until pliable.
- Lift with plastic scraper. Expose flat painted steel where the wood frame will sit.
- Wipe residue with IPA or mild adhesive remover. Dry fully.
Build and finish the interior frame
- Cut 3/4″ birch ply to OD ~18″×18″ with 14″×14″ inner opening.
- Paint dark gray and seal all edges; let cure.
- Drill shallow counterbores (Forstner 1–1-1/4″) so a socket fits the nuts. Leave ≥1/2″ wood under each nut.
Bond the adapter (triangle bead)
- Clean roof and adapter with IPA. Mask edges.
- Cut the nozzle to a 45° wedge tip; run a 1/4″ triangular bead of polyurethane: full perimeter + two cross-ribs; keep bead ~1/8–3/16″ inboard from outer edge.
- Place adapter. Apply even pressure or light weights. Tool minimal squeeze-out. Pull tape while wet. Allow skin time per product data sheet.
Flange, through-bolting, and butyl
- Apply 1″×1/8″ butyl to the underside of the fan flange.
- Set flange on adapter. Align holes.
- Drill #10 clearance through the full stack (≈13/64″ / 5 mm).
- Insert bolts from outside with fender washers. Inside: fender washer + nyloc on the frame.
- Tighten in a cross pattern until butyl squeezes uniformly. Do not crush the flange.
Trim butyl squeeze-out
- Before lap sealant, slice and lift excess butyl with a plastic scraper or plastic razor. Leave a thin, continuous butyl line under the flange edge.
Lap sealant (topside cap)
- Mask around the flange and over each exterior head/washer.
- Apply self-leveling lap sealant: cover all heads/washers and run a continuous perimeter fillet.
- Pull tape immediately for clean lines. Let cure fully.
- Optional: if you still want a darker look and lack black lap, apply a thin cosmetic Flex Seal topcoat only after full cure. Do not rely on it as the primary seal.
Fan body and wiring
- Run 12 VDC with a 5 A fused feed. Observe polarity. Provide strain relief.
- Set the fan body on the roof flange. Fasten with the four kit screws only.
- Trim and install the interior garnish to cover the frame.
QA checklist
- Cut edges primed and painted
- Acoustic panels cleared where frame sits
- Adapter bond continuous with triangle bead; no voids over ribs
- Uniform butyl squeeze around flange
- Excess butyl trimmed clean before lap
- Through-bolts snug; no flange deformation
- Lap sealant continuous over heads and perimeter
- 5 A fuse installed; polarity correct; strain relief done
- Lid opens/closes without interference
Maintenance
- Re-check bolt torque and sealant after the first hot day.
- Inspect at 6 and 12 months; touch up lap sealant if cracks or gaps appear.